понеделник, 21 октомври 2013 г.

Kalina Atanasova on the trail of the medieval Bulgarian costume

Radio Bulgaria interview with Kalina Atanasova by Albena Berezovska 

+Kalina Badamba Atanasova +Bulgarian Medieval Costume

Kalina defines herself as a designer by profession, an artist by training, an illustrator at heart. To this you should add her passion in Bulgarian history and traditions. The restorations of antique clothing is her main hobby. She works in this area from approximately ten years. Her attention is mainly focused on medieval costume of the Second Bulgarian Kingdom. She graduated from the Fine Arts University of Veliko Tarnovo in the class of Prof. Bumov. Lives in Varna, where her idea has attracted a wide range of followers.

"The idea came to me in 2004 - 2005 years - says Kalina. - At that time I started to deal with Bulgarian historical reenactments. Together with five friends we founded in Varna club where we met people united by their genuine interest in the culture and lifestyle of our past."



The first elements of medieval clothing that Kalina worked on were  metal armors, military costumes and accessories. She restored the original appearance of the armor . In her recent publications can see drawings of male and female shirts, outerwear , shoes, cloaks. She is also doing her studies on medieval underwear, weapons , jewelry.



"There are pieces of clothing that are required for certain rites, rituals, magical practices. Knowing traditional culture, makes it easier to collect information "

See and hear the complete interview here





четвъртък, 17 октомври 2013 г.

The church in Dolna Kamenitsa Village (1323 – 1330) Costume of a Medieval ruler Despot Mikhail.

The church in Dolna Kamenitsa Village (1323 – 1330)
Costume of a Medieval ruler Despot Mikhail.


The church of the village of Lower Kamenica is an exceptionally rich and preserved frescoes, of which we will look at several different images and their medieval costumes. The first of these is Despot Mikhail.

The fresco on the church wall: 



The picture is clear enough to allow very detailed analysis. 

The Costume in Details: 

Is very beautiful festive outerwear , adorned with thick yellow strips with pearls. Among them are embroidered birds ( eagles probably ), and lilies. Strapped with a few big roller yellow buttons . Bottom of the mural is damaged and can not determine how far the garment, but compared to other similar , for example that of the despot Constantine from London gospel , it can be assumed that as long as mid-calf . Her overall appearance matches the description of the pseudo- coded in the "Book of the ranks " of the Byzantine despot kavadion - /similar to kaftan pattern/ purple in color, lined with golden borders and lined with pearls .
Details of the belt of pictures at my disposal did not differ , but the graphical diagrams to see some research applications.Bottom tunic at first glance appears white , but upon closer inspection it turns red , with two thick yellow ornamental stripes on wrists and sleeves, buttoned with a row of small buttons. Her cleavage is sharp and repeat the upper garment .

The costume scheme:

The scheme of all costume details: 


The royal insignia 


The ensemble is completed by the royal insignia - crown and scepter . Georgi Atanasov sees this crown reflection of Byzantine ceremonial , according to which the king's son , if was proclaimed despot wears a crown with four arched chambers. However, I think the resemblance is not very full - crown is not a type of wreath, and is crowned with " teeth ", obviously a lot more than four . Its decoration includes three major jewels in the front and probably one of the rear, but it is an exaggeration to speak of separate chambers , and their shape is not the same . And finally , on both sides of the face descend pearl pendants ( propenduli ) which are neither mentioned in Cody , nor seen depicted in portraits of the Byzantine despots .

The costume Illustration: 

Despot Mikhail in his ceremonial costume 

Gligora cave church near Karlukovo (late XIII – early XIV century) Medieval Costumes of two girls from the aristocratic family

Gligora cave church near Karlukovo (late XIII – early XIV century)

Medieval Costumes of two girls from the aristocratic family


General Information about this object: 

" ... The monastery chapel " Nicholas " , also called " Gligora " on the left bank of the river Iskar near Karlukovo . Two- nave church was built somewhere on the border between the XIII and XIV century , is now almost destroyed. Recently discovered fragments of the first layer are removed from the walls and are the sites of the museum in the town of Lovech. These are ... and three votive images on the retaining wall surrounding an open gallery in the churchyard - the images of two young boyars and abbot Daniel ( labeled ), St. Nicholas and candle, to which the inscription refers to someone (L ) obrosl ( ac) . ... Costumes and the Eurosystem of Boyar find parallels in the monuments and in archaeological finds from XIII - XIV century . "

Source: Liliana Mavrodinova , "wall painting in Bulgaria by the end of the XIV century " Academic Publishing House "Prof. Drinov " , Sofia, 1995


Murals after computer processing.

Costume Information 


In the production of both schemes met the colors described by Liliana Mavrodinova in her book dedicated to Karlukovski skits . According to her, the girls wear gold narakvitsi ( wrist ) , but I think in this case, rather decorate the bottom liner. Staining after two black stripes would give some guidance , but black and white image that can not be seen. Top tunic strongly resembles depicted in Stanichene - white, very broad and long-sleeved woven into small pieces . Specifically at the neckline - very wide , decorated with colored stripe , two rows of pearls and precious stones (perhaps brooch ?) . It is possible that the stone is not the function of the fastener . Cloak like a long vest . Her neckline segues into a crevice to bottom, lined with braid and fastened rather sparsely with small round buttons. Such clothing is not present in other portraits reserved . Fall behind many decorative pieces. Generally appear to be sufficiently wide to be part of the functional sleeve , but not quite enough to fit the fabric of the sleeves of the tunic . 

The two costume schemes:




Liliana Mavrodinova mentioned that this could actually be a cloak , but the shoulders are quite well preserved because there is not really an extra layer of fabric or links , I think it too unlikely . Unlike the little girl in Lower Kamenica , depicted with a very simple covering of the head in relation to that of his mother, here preserved part of the head is really complicated decorations , including the " so-called . ic system , almost identical to that on the head of Desislava frescoes of the Boyana " ( under management solution means tiara with fabric bottom) , and something like a string of pearls , drop down and sideways to the ears . Diadem looks like a thick ring with precious stones. This is witnessed by the other images - Boyana , Stanichene - but not by archaeological finds. The same thing applies to the narrow neck necklaces.

The girl on the left there is the same type of cover on hand, but this really might be the on wrist. There is no clear line that distinguishes the decoration. Tunic is no horizontal colored stripes on the shoulders and upper garment - no gap at the front and narrower neck. Decorative pieces could be seen (if they exist), because the girl was partially hidden by his sister. Head is not preserved, and nothing can be said about the hair.

The Costumes Illustration: Two Medieval Bulgarian Girls 




сряда, 16 октомври 2013 г.

Sveti Arhangeli church in Kastoria (early XIII century) Medieval Bulgarian Royal Costume

Sveti Arhangeli church in Kastoria (early XIII century)

Medieval Bulgarian Royal Costume


The church is located in present-day Greece. Built 9-10c., Are preserved scenic sections of the 13 and 14th century. The outside facade depicts Bulgarian tsar Michael Asen II (1246 - 1256) The son of Ivan Asen II, and his mother Irina Komnina standing on both sides of the Archangel Michael. The clothing is forlas as royal insignia is not presented.

You can see the original paintings here 

The Tsar's Costume: Michael Asen

Cloak is orange with a small collar with hemmed edge . The inside has a colorful lining. Sleeve is very short (or even gone, and the cloth is with one shoulder ), and in the end has a gold- stripe decoration. The tunic is very beautiful, all decorated with circles of eagles in them with a broad geometric decoration of the biceps and a narrower wrist , most likely on the neck ( there are not very visible ) . Generally similar garment Kaloyan the mural in the Boyana Church. Unfortunately can not see the decoration and studded belt or shoes.

King Michael Asen costume scheme:

The Trstitsa's Costume: Irina Comnina 

Elements of the costume : - the right dress colorful fabric. Patterns can be discerned well, but it appears that they are entered in and around the circles. It is possible to repeat those in the garment of Michael Asen . Gap in the door there , the sleeves are narrow , so there is probably at the wrist fastening. - Rugs broad-band decoration edge fastening is not visible. And that of Desislava, probably Byzantine type semicircle . - Complex headdress . As far as can be seen from the image of the hair is tangled Irene of two yarns , which in turn is wrapped around the head and are secured to the bead coronet . Top wrapped a long cloth which end goes under the chin . In the middle of the cloth , a crown , adorned traverse line. The cloth is secured by a second or tiara with gold- kilt , difficult to judge , and fastened on her big ear .

Queen Irina Comnina Costume scheme: 



Illustration of Royal Portrait with several assumptions about the structure of veiling .



Reconstruction of Queens headdress


Composed of the following elements: - two pearl strings without solid foundation, tied at the back - very thin, long silk cloth embroidered in the middle - Hand woven ribbon sewn with engraved brass plates and glass beads that holds the towel - brass ear attached tape with tinsel thread. Their gravity pulls the tape down and interfere with other elements to be moved.




Reconstruction of a headdress made ​​of Gergana Mihailova, photos Alexander Minchev.